Turkey’s capital in all but name Population: 16 million officially
Old names: Byzantion, Constantinople, Augusta Antonina, Nea Roma (New Rome), Dersaadet, Miklagord (Viking), Stamboul, Konstantiniyye, Polis (“the City”), İslambol, Tsarigrad/Carigrad, Estambol, Kosta
Turkey is one of those rare countries whose biggest and best city is not its capital. In the case of İstanbul this is especially surprising given that it was in the past the capital first of the Eastern Roman Empire, then of the Byzantine Empire and then finally of the Ottoman Empire. But in 1923 Atatürk relocated the capital east to Ankara to mark the clean break between his new Republic of Turkey and its Ottoman predecessor.
Unique in that it straddles both Europe and Asia, the great city on the Bosphorus strait spent much of the 20th century in the doldrums. Now though it’s back again, and making a big splash on the world stage as a tourism hotspot.
Like all megalopolises modern İstanbul is all things to all people. If you’re sipping çay in a cafe overlooking the Bosphorus in spring when the Judas trees are in vivid fuschia blossom you might think it the most beautiful city in the world. If you’re changing buses in dreary Dudullu, however, you might think it one of the ugliest. If you’re strolling through Bebek on a balmy summer evening you might think it one of the trendiest places on earth. If you’re browsing the market in Çarşamba, on the other hand, you might think it alarmingly conservative.
If you’re cruising across to Üsküdar on the ferry you might think commuting was never more enjoyable. If, on the other hand, you’re squashed into an overcrowded Metrobus to Avcılar you might think sardines have it easy. If you’re staying in the Four Seasons on the Bosphorus you might think hotels don’t come much more wonderfully romantic. If you’re putting up in an Aksaray fleapit, however, you might wonder what became of the modern İstanbul about which you’ve heard so much.
The one thing everyone can agree upon, however, is that İstanbul is achingly historic and you’ll need a good three or four days just to tick off the real must-see sights. With only one day in transit you’ll be hard-pressed to decide what to prioritise.
If you only have one day in the city: İstanbul in One Day
If you only have three days in the city: İstanbul in Three Days
Otherwise:
.
