Home of the black rose       

Population: 400 (Eski Halfeti); 8,500 (Yeni Halfeti)

The opening of the Birecik Dam on the Euphrates in 2000 spelt the end of life as people in the villages around this part of southeastern Turkey had known it. Around 6,500 people had to be relocated, including many of those who lived in Halfeti in honey-coloured houses that resemble those of Cappadocia.

Two-thirds of the locals agreed to move to new homes above the level of the new lake but one-third continue to occupy a much-reduced settlement whose abandoned mosque now crouches at the water’s edge.

In spring siyah güller (black roses) used to flower in a red so deep as to appear black from a distance. Unfortunately since the coming of the dam only the buds are black; when they open they flower a normal red.  None of which has stopped the television series Karagül (Black Rose) being filmed in the village.

The main reason to come here is to visit the ruins of Rumkale (Greek Castle), perched on top of a rock upstream from the village. Restoration work has been carried out since my visit – I have no idea how successful it has been.

Otherwise you might be directed to Değirmendere, an attractive rocky valley that is supposedly home to several interesting species of birds including the pretty wall creeper. Unfortunately there was so much little in the valley that I abandoned my foray into it after about 100m. half2

On the waterfront the mosque ought to be another attraction for visitors but when I visited in 2014 its gates were locked and, peering into the partially flooded interior, I concluded that it was no longer in use. It’s a shame that visitors are not allowed inside to admire its fine mihrab.

In what was once the Armenian neighbourhood straggling up the hill at the northern end of the village some of the houses have fine carvings on their facades that echo those of nearby Şanlıurfa and even Mardin.

Nine km inland from Eski Halfeti (Old Halfeti) Yeni Halfeti (New Halfeti) is a depressing mess of concrete. There’s a market here on Wednesday and you might need to come in to use the bank. Otherwise there’s no reason to stop.

Halfeti is signed up to the Slow City movement hence the quantity of snail signs you’ll see about town.

The PKK leader Abdullah Öcalan was born in the nearby village of Ömerli which you might or might not be allowed to visit.

half1Eating

The waterfront is lined with restaurants, most of them with decks out into the water. They are reasonably atmospheric although the fish I was served was dry and uninspiring.

Sleeping

For a better choice of hotels, aim to stay in Gaziantep or Şanlıurfa. There is also accommodation in Birecik and Nizip.

Gül Konağı. Tel: 0541-534 6219

Şahin Hotel. Tel: 0414-751 5251

Socrates Halfeti Evleri

Transport info

Buses from Gaziantep to Şanlıurfa pass through Birecik where you can pick up a dolmuş to Yeni Halfeit. The driver will probably agree to run you onto Eski Halfeti for a “taxi” fee. Likewise they will pick you up from Eski Halfeti if given half an hour’s advance notice.

Read more about a visit to the area in 2007: The Road to Rumkale

 

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