KOZLUCA (BAGNAİR, BAGNAYR)

A turning on the right-hand side of the road from Kars to Ani leads eventually to the village of Kozluca which hosts the remains of two forgotten Armenian churches on either side of a valley.

The first is a small domed structure, the other a huge building in a shocking state of collapse, but interesting nevertheless for its Selçuk-style maqarna (stalactite) carvings and copious Armenian inscriptions. 

The smaller church appears to have been constructed first before being supplanted in importance when the larger building was erected between 1010-12 after being commissioned by a prince called Smbat.

Transport info

There is no public transport to get you here so without a private car you will need to negotiate with a taxi driver in Kars. If that's what you're going to do arrange for them to take you to Yağkesen and Oğuzlu too.