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KANLICA

Yoghurt Central

kanli1Old name: Glaros

On the Asian shore of the Bosphorus the small suburb of Kanlıca is best known to locals for its popular yoghurt, sold in vast quantities near the ferry terminal. This is a part of İstanbul which still retains many of its lovely old yalıs (waterside mansions). These are best appreciated from the water since most are concealed from prying roadside eyes by lofty walls and high security. 

The best known place for sampling the yoghurt is the İsmailağa Kahvesi right beside the jetty which has been in business fo decades. The eponymous İsmail is thought to have introduced the thick yoghurt from Bulgaria. It's often eaten sprinkled with sugar. kanli4Out for yoghurt

There are no specific sites to see here although the area immediately around the jetty is invitingly olde-worlde. It's overlooked by the small İsmailağa Kahvesi, originally built by Sinan in 1560 for a powerful official whose tomb can be seen beside the small timekeeper's lodge (muvakkitane). Sadly, none of the great Ottoman architect's handiwork survives today. 

Less attractively, one of the huge radar towers that line the shores of the Bosphorus also looms over the square. 

High on the hillside above Kanlıca the Mihrabad Korusu is a stretch of woodland that once offered inspiration to poets such as Yahya Kemal Beyaltı. Even today its view of the Bosphorus and both its bridges is breathtaking. It comes with marked walking trails and an inviting line-up of tea gardens. Without a car it's a bit of a trek to reach it though.

As for the yalıs the easiest to identify is the pretty Ethem Pertev Yalısı, also known as the Süslü Yalı (Decorated Yalı). It dates back to the 1860s and incorporates a beautifully carved verandah. kanli2

Sleeping

A'jia. Tel: 0216-413 9300

Transport info

The nicest way to get here is by ferry although the service is quite limited (www.sehirhatlari.com).

Alternatively, you can cross to Emirgan in a motor, a small motorised boat. The normal fare is only about TL5. 

Otherwise you can take a bus in the 15 series from Üsküdar. 

Nearby areas

Anadolu Hisarı

Çubuklu

Küçüksu

kanli3Look closely and you'll see that the figures are scarecrows to keep the seagulls at bay

 

 

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