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Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

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25769
In front of the entrance to Eğirdir’s magnificent Dundar Bey Medrese Tahir Usta is stirring a vast cauldron of a curious yellow paste. I peer into it suspiciously. There are patches of oil on the top and pistachios floating haphazardly round the edges. “What is it?” I ask. “Irmak helva,” comes the reply. For...
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