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Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

3088
It was early in the morning and I was rushing through Malatya’s bazaar on my way to catch the bus to Darende. It was too early for anyone much to be working except, rather surprisingly, in the forge section which was already abuzz with activity. As I rushed past I was...
trotters1
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2552
In his youth, I think, Hasan must have been something of a heart-stopper. Even now in his fifties he seems wholly at ease in his body in a way that only those who know themselves to be good-looking ever truly are. Ahead of me he strides, back held straight and proud,...
tril1
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16288
While in İstanbul recently I got chatting to a woman who had been married to a Turk for more than 40 years. Like many foreigners she had been happy to rub along over the years with a regularly renewed residency permit. Like many other foreigners, though, she was reconsidering her situation...
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3297
The man sitting across from me in the corner cafe is almost blue with cold. What’s more his hands are shaking uncontrollably. “Here, have this tea,” I say, pushing it across to him. “Put your hands round it. You’re freezing.” He smiled and indicated the glass already beside him. Then he...
crosstoss1
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23093
I’m in Burdur otogar waiting for the bus to Bucak when a woman sits down beside me who, at a sidelong glance, I’m sure must come from Somalia. She’s wearing a ragbag mix of clothes and far too many of them, in my opinion, for the sticky hot weather. Her head...
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